![ambience lighting ambience lighting](https://i-bosity-com.oss-cn-hongkong.aliyuncs.com/product_img/263/64011064/image.jpg)
After testing, and installing the sketch I had written, I drilled holes in the lamp housing for the button, photoresistor, circuit board screws, and an access hole for connecting a USB cable during development. Linkedin Twitter Facebook-f Instagram Youtube. Illuminating Engineering Society 120 Wall Street, 17th Floor New York, NY 10005-4001 +1 21. Next, I calculated and installed current limiting resistors for the UV LEDs I had installed, and wired them to the other PWM transistor. ambient lighting 10.1.18 Lighting throughout an area that produces general illumination.
AMBIENCE LIGHTING DRIVER
I then ran a wire from the collector of the PWM driver transistor for the main LED channel to the point on the LED board where the ground wire had been previously.
![ambience lighting ambience lighting](https://www.sandyspringbuilders.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/oldChester_0014.jpg)
I disconnected the ground (black) wire from the LED board, and connected it to the ground of my control board. Next, I took the +12 volt (red) wire coming from the power switch, (switch is not visible, in the photo below due to USB cable.) and connected it to the V-in pin of the NANO, and then extended on it to it's original connection on the LED board. With a combination of product offerings that completely cover façade, landscape, exterior and interior aspects, smart architectural lighting solutions are. Contrast with directional lighting, which is made up of a light source with parallel light. The pushbutton is used to switch modes for the controller, and a photoresistor is used to adjust the LEDs based on the ambient light level. Lumi Ambience is a fast-growing project lighting solutions provider located in Kuala Lumpur and Melbourne that works closely with Architects, Interior Designers and Lighting Designers.
AMBIENCE LIGHTING DRIVERS
The transistors are used as drivers to the LEDs from the PWM pins 3 and 5 of the NANO. I reinstalled the LED board, and then I grabbed an Arduino NANO (my development board of choice), a pushbutton switch, a few resistors, a Photoresistor and 2 general purpose NPN transistors, and wired them up on a proto-board. The anode ends were kept separate, the cathode ends wired together. I determined where I could drill holes for 12 more (the UV) LEDS, installed them, held each in place with a dot of hot glue, and wired them together in a series-parallel configuration, 2 series lines of 6 LEDs each. I cut the plastic rivets holding the board in the fixture, and lifted the board. A black and a red wire coming from the power jack, going to a power switch, then to the LED board. I then used a spudger to release the snap clips around the edges, and separated the 2 halves. Then I examined the light, and found 2 screws which I removed. First, I looked at the wall wart power adapter for the aquarium light.